Where to start, how to explain. India, as I have said is a place of contradictions and opposites. It boggles the mind, enriches and drives you crazy all at once and I feel so happy that I experienced it with Paulette and Chuck. There wasn't a day when we didn't scratch our heads, wonder and laugh! Most every day we have seen at least one wedding and most every one of them is arranged. One man told us he didn't meet his wife until the wedding but he had seen her photo. He also said that arranged marriages last longer than 'love' marriages. Hmmm. Maybe?
There are a few more photos of Jaipur which is known as the pink city (it's actually more salmon Paulette pointed out), but pretty much all of the old city is painted that color. We visited Hawa Mahal (mahal means palace I found out) which stands probably five stories high and has 93 windows - little windows with wooden doors on them. This was so the ladies who lived there and were not allowed to walk around on the streets could view the world from their tiny windows. Quite a life.
Our next stop was Ranthambore Park where there is said to be about 65 tigers give or take. We went on an afternoon/sunset safari in search and, while we saw a Sambar deer who had fallen prey to one of these magnificent beasts, our luck was not with us (and we had a lazy 'naturalist' who wasn't into making an effort.) Oh well! We did see spotted deer, wild boar, lots of peacocks (the bird of India), Sambar deer and langurs as well as some interesting birds and some beautiful forest. I'm happy just knowing that the tigers are there and thriving. Go tigers!
The next day was a very long drive from Ranthambore to Agra, the home of the Taj Mahal. We stopped at Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary which made us late arriving in Agra, but Ghoki was patient and it was SO worth the long day. A man built much like an 11 year old boy peddled Paulette and I around in a bicycle tuk-tuk and, while he didn't speak much English, he sure knew where to find the birds! It was a lovely day with some amazing sightings and I hope that man got a good dinner and maybe a massage after hauling us around all afternoon. Then the fun began!
Ghoki had said he didn't like to drive in the dark and now we know why. Do you know how hard it is to see a black cow on a highway that it unlit? I will tell you that it's very hard and you will receive LOTS of bad karma, not to mention fines, and possible jail time for hitting a cow. To top it off some trucks don't have lights and the driving in this country is insane to begin with. BUT we made it to Agra safely and without incident and woke the next morning to watch the sunrise at the Taj Mahal so TOTALLY worth it! The Taj is beautiful and really must be seen in person to be appreciated. It was made by the emperor Shah Jahan as a tribute and to house the remains of his wife who died while giving birth to their 14th child. It is truly a building made with love.
From there was the overnight train from Agra to Varanasi with a stopover at the most amazing flower festival. We had some time to kill before the night train left and Ghoki took us to this flower festival. We were the only non-Indian people there and had our pictures taken (once again) by lots of children and adults who just wanted to meet us, ask us where we were from and take pictures with us. It was amazing and so sweet.
Then to the train. Our driver talked to two railroad employees and told them to get us to the train and to our berth which they did for a small amount of rupees. We would probably still be standing there if we hadn't had help. What a confusing place Indian train stations are!
We arrived in Varanasi in the morning and were greeted by a driver from our hotel who drove us there. This is where I am (almost) speechless. I am not sure how to describe what we experienced, but it was one of the most incredible, moving experiences of my life. We all felt that way.
We walked through narrow streets with cows (and that which accompanies cows being everywhere) down to the river and all the ghats. We got on a small boat and rowed down river passed many ghats, temples and even two cremation sites. I have not included photos out of respect for custom and privacy.
It seemed that suddenly there were thousands of people on shore and 100s of boats full of people in the water to watch a ceremony that happens every night of the year, rain or shine and was breathtaking and simply awesome. There were people chanting and clapping and incense burning and a fire dance of sorts. Others went from boat to boat offering chai tea, another young man went from boat to boat with a bowl full of fire for blessings and for a small offering people bought little cups of flowers with candles and floated them down the river for blessings/luck or wishes. It was an amazing thing to behold and no photo can capture it but I have included a few.
Today we are back in Delhi and after seeing the Northern India Gate and Qutub Minar we are preparing to fly back to Bangkok tomorrow and are all a bit sad to leave this weird and amazing country. Enough words. Here are some photos and I apologize if there are too many birds! LOL!
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Hawa Mahal and below the gate to the Old City of Jaipur |
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Singh Family Burial Site |
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A Cow Manure Home and Manure for burning on roof |
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A woman taking greens to cows
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A bird (name unknown) and some photos from Ranthambore - No tigers |
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A spotted owl - bird sanctuary |
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Mongolian Geese |
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A Nilgai - Antelope from India |
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The endangered Sarus Crane |
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Grey Heron |
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Indian Spoonbill |
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Our Train Station Helpers |
The following are of the ceremony in Varanasi - You really had to be there.
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Sunrise on the Ganges |
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Bathing in the Ganges |
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Qutub Minar |
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India Gate - Dedicate to those who fought in wars between 1914 and 1919 |
I love the owl, and the sunrise on the ganges. The Taj Mahal never ceases to amaze me and I've never even seen it in person! But the story behind it and its just so striking. And the photo of you in front of it may be my favorite from your whole trip. But the poor pathetic women with their tiny windows, geez! Makes me grateful. Love you
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