Bioluminescence

Bioluminescent dinoflagellates.  Ha!  That's a mouthful!  I went on a night kayak trip with Point Reyes Outdoors last weekend to see the bioluminescence on Tomales Bay.  It was an incredible experience and one I highly recommend.  The night was still as was the bay and there were millions of stars in the sky.  That, in itself, was a truly amazing but to see what appeared to be stars lighting up in the water whenever it was disturbed was surreal.  It's believed that bioluminescence is a result of dinoflagellates protecting themselves against predators but I don't think anyone is quite sure.  In any case, the wake of a kayak, the paddle touching the water or a hand stirring the water all cause the water to sparkle like thousands of fireflies and it is a truly beautiful sight to behold.  I am grateful that I had the opportunity and hope to repeat it next Summer . . . and the one after that.  Okay, you get it.  Wonderful!

Reflections from Home

I cannot begin to sum up my trip to Peru or even the few days I spent in Panama but I will try in as few words as possible.  Peru is a country of many facets and incredible beauty.  I fulfilled a lifelong dream to visit Machu Picchu, overcame fears of the jungle and altitude sickness and loved pretty much every minute of it.  I went from one of the highest lakes in the world, to deep in the Amazon rainforest to the cosmopolitan city of Panama City.  What made this trip for me, though, was the people I met along the way. I've enclosed pictures of some of the people who I was fortunate enough to photograph.  There are others, though, that I didn't.  Manuel of K'usillus is one of those people who I will never forget for waiting for over two hours at the airport while my plane was delayed.  He drove me all over Lima and was a very kind man.  Thank you Manuel.  Also, Fernando, Graciela, Bichina and Pedro from Amazonia Expeditions, Doro, an artist  from Germany who gave me Soroche Pills and, because of her photos, convinced me to make the trip to Lake Titicaca.  Thank you Doro and good luck with your show. Also, Blanca in Cusco, and Camille (a wellness tourism writer who I liked a lot but was, literally, on my way out of town - too bad.).

Ricardo from K'usillus in Lima

.  He was a big help - and cute too!

                                                                                                                    Julio, also from K'usillus and a sweetheart.

 

Helen from Sweden.  We spent a great deal of time at the Hitching Post to the Sun.

Lernessio from the Uros Islands.  He invited us into his home.

Luke and Cindy.  We discovered the Amazon together!

Luke and Cindy learning to make a thatched roof.  Cindy and I did our first zipline but she inched her way to the platform single-handed while I had Jack hoist me up!  Way to go, Cindy!

Sarah and Ellis, mechanical engineers from Alberta - Hope you don't mind, Sarah, I altered the picture of you catching the piranha (just took out the fishing line).  Looks like the piranha caught you! Ha!

Angela - Currently a teacher in Chile.

Jack - Who hoisted me all the way up to the platform!  Muy fuerte!

Haller - What a nice guy!  I couldn't have done the zipline without his encouragement.

Bob - An amazing fellow who has done incredible things in his lifetime, including kayaking the Antarctic, ballooning over the Serengeti, skydiving and spending two weeks in the Amazon!  That is a blowgun in his lap.  Really!

Dorilla - The star of the show!

 The people shown here were all presented on my blog previously,
but I didn't want to leave them out.  Starting to the right is Lilia from Cusco, below is Natasha and Andy from Alberta, then Soledad, my friend from Aguas Calientes and below Soledad are Victoria, Cary, Alan and Tom from Santa Barbara.
All great people who contributed great memories and helped to make the trip really wonderful. 

Jhonatan, my guide who taught me a lot about the jungle - Thank you Jhonatan, mi nuevo hijo!

Winnie - He has an amazing knowledge of the jungle and a gentle, kind spirit.

Poly from Panama City.

Panama Ed

Okay, so it's a silly name based on a Grateful Dead song of all things, but there is a story (not much of one).  The proprietor of this fine place told me his name several times - something like Edrrrrrrranciel.  He says I'm not the only one who doesn't get it.  Anyway, he said, "Just call me Ed.". There - now on with the story.

View from My Balcony of  Bridge of the Americas

__

My Bathroom (Looks like the one we had as children)

View from the top of Ancon Hill

I'm not sure what I expected to find in Panama City, but I'm pretty sure this wasn't it.  The city seems very cosmopolitan and is loaded with unusual skyscrapers which seem, for the most part, to be clumped together.  There is an old town which is currently under major construction but is full of beautiful old buildings with wrought iron gates and balconies on narrow streets.  Ships line up in the Pacific Ocean to go through the canal, and the ocean seems WAY calmer than the Pacific Ocean with which I'm acquainted.  The coolest thing, though, is Ancon Hill where I'm staying. This hill used to be owned by America's military as is evidenced by the base-style housing.   It's an actual small rain forest within the city limits and is literally teeming with wildlife.  I have seen Tamarin monkeys, parrots, toucans and a variety of other birds, all from my very own balcony with the most comfortable hammock.  There is also a large rodent (not as large as a Capybara but similar looking) who roams around all over this hill. It's called a Central American Agouti. The one thing i have determined is that this country bears closer inspection.  I haven't ventured too far, having only a few days here and liking the idea of staying put after a long and fairly active trip, but I walk up to the top of the Hill in the morning and evening to look at the trees, birds and to watch large vessels go through the Miraflores Locks.  For a relatively small country, you could spend time here exploring its forests, mountains and what appears to be great beaches.  But that's for another trip.  See y'all soon!

You Gotta See This!

Unless you're shy, prudish or under age.  But first -. A brief summary of my day.  Having miscalculated my departure, I was unable to stay at my standby hotel, Kusillus, tonight while waiting for my departure.  I ended up paying four times their rate of $17/night and booked a place in San Ysidro for $80/night (all I could find).  You would not believe what you can get in Lima for $80!  I have a two bedroom, two bath suite in an upscale neighborhood.   This place is unbelievable!  Two big tv's, full kitchen, bathtub, etc. in a neighborhood where people have varnished garage doors and tall walls with spikes to "protect" themselves (I guess).  Met a guy named Frank here who is from LA and travels with a hip hop group called Killafornia.  He's off to Russia after here.  And a woman named Camille who researches health and wellness spas in different places and writes about them.

Dead Men Masturbating

Depicting Venereal Disease 

On my last day here, I visited the Museo de Larco which has the largest collection of pre - Columbian pottery.  Really interesting!  I've included a few pictures.  WARNING - CONTAINS ADULT MATERIAL and just some weird stuff.

People with Facial Paralysis?  You Betcha!

Really!  There was everything you can imagine.  I've only included a few.  What an interesting place!  I also found an Inkan pyramid in the center of Lima surrounded by homes and highrises.  It was used as a burial Site.  Off to Panama in the middle of the night.  Bye for now.

The Sad City?

The Lonely Planet book refers to Lima as the sad city due to the fact that it is pretty constantly blanketed in fog (not unlike San Francisco).  As cities go, it has sort of grown on me.  It's huge, parts of it are unsafe, and the traffic is fairly horrendous but you can get around in taxis for about 10-15 solés (the equivalent of 4-10$ US). Today I took a taxi to the Plaza de Armas which is full of people hanging out and very important looking buildings with guards and policia.  By the way, in case you haven't figured it out or I haven't told you, every town/city/pueblo has a Plaza de Armas.  I went to Iglesias Santa Domingo mainly for my friend, Paulette (they have the skulls of dead saints encased in glass, especially Santa Rosa).  I then walked to the Parque de La Reserva where the Circuito Magico del Agua happens at night, skipping the catacombs in the Monasterio de San Francisco (sorry Paulette).  The park and fountains are incredible - something like the Bellagio in Las Vegas but with that weird Latin American slant.  There was a talent show involving five acts and the young man who won hugged his father and cried while being filmed.  (The losers were gracious.). There were two bride/groom couples and a few prom queen's/princesses? walking around while a train took children and their parents on a tour of the fountain park.  Where else could you see all that?  I loved it!  I leave tomorrow night, so tomorrow is my last day in Peru.  I plan to visit Museo Larco where the largest collection of pre-Columbian erotica (and other) ceramic art is housed, including a piece showing transmission of venereal diseases???  I'll let you know.

Flower Market 

Doesn't look so sad after all.

It's A Jungle Out There

My Guide, Jhonatan 

I can't even think of how to describe this place.  First of all, it is oppressively hot with temperatures and humidity in at least the high 80's. It is darn hot!  Secondly, you must wear long sleeved shirts, long pants, rubber boots (have you ever hiked in rubber boots?) and preferably a hat.  The reason for this is to protect you while in the jungle from coral snakes, fire antz, a palm tree with spikes, the very poisonous Fer de Lance, etc.  Having said all of that, it is really amazing here.  The people who I have met are incredibly knowledgeable about their jungle and willing to teach you.  The jungle itself is indescribable.  Today we hiked about 3 1/2 miles each way (in rubber boots) to a lake that was beautiful.  We saw an anteater, toucans, hoatzin birds, caracaras, hawks and a sloth that we actually were able to touch.  I have ziplined, fished for piranhas, gone night canoeing and got caught in the most amazing downpour I have ever experienced.  I met some great people including a man in his 80's (Bob) who is going through his bucket list, a young woman (Rose) who is spending a year and a half completing her thesis on the habits of the red urikari monkey and of course Cindy and Luke who have been great people to get to know and who I have hiked with AND ziplined with, and Ellis and Sarah who I accompanied on a fishing excursion - FUN!  I will be leaving in the morning.  Back to Lima for a day and then to Panama for a few days, but I will really miss this place and hope to return sometime.  I highly recommend this to everyone as it will be unlike anything you have experienced and something you'll never, ever forget - I promise!

I'm In the Jungle!

Where to start?  I know I mentioned Iquitos but it is one of the more interesting cities I've seen.  One of the guides said the town has more than 50,000 motor taxis (basically tuk-tuks).  Gambling is also legal and there are discotheques.  Yes, discotheques complete with flashing lights and balloons and stuff.  Anyway, it's a very interesting place, but the Tahuayo Lodge is "chanatre".  That is supposed to be Spanish for really cool, awesome, splendid. . . You get it, but I may have misspelled it.  It's just amazing here.  We took a covered sort of ferry boat about two hours up the Amazon river which is enormously incredible, stopped in a little village called Esperanza where there were nice people and a band playing.  Then another two hours on the Tahuayo river to get here.  Already, I've seen and in some cases photographed, pygmy marmosets, squirrel monkeys, parrots and other birds of the jungle (I can't remember all their names).  It's beginning to get dark and I'm looking forward to the night sounds.  What a place! Oh, and the people are really nice too!  Today I met Cindy and Luke from Las Vegas and Ellis and Sara from Alberta.  Each of us has their own guide and mine is Jonathan who is 21 and a really knowledgeable person - and he makes monkey calls which is why I saw so many monkeys today.  Tonight we took a boat up river and looked for wildlife.  We saw Tahuayo birds which are called that because their call sounds like they're saying Tahuayo.  They glow in the dark!  There were fireflies and a caiman and some kind of night heron and we turned off our headlamps while floating in the river and listened to jungle sounds and looked at the stars and the river - magical!

Sorry - No pictures today, but some later.

Off to the jungle

Very difficult to write here, but I'll try.  The plane flew over miles and miles of jungle and Iquitos is insane in a charming sort of way.  The Amazon is huge and the town is over run with tuk-tuks.

Puno Actually Rocks!

Okay, I admit when I'm wrong.  Everything else I said still applies,  but it turns out that the gunshots were firecrackers as there is now a brass band going up and down the street which is making the horns beep more but all in good fun.  Yay!  Wonder what the occasion is. . . .
It's La Celebracion de Los Universidads and the fun doesn't stop.  After an incredible day on Lake Titicaca today - and I really mean totally cool - we were dropped off near to our hotel because there were people dancing in the streets.  It's still going on and it's a really big deal with some of the coolest angel and devil and monster costumes I've ever seen!  The guys are amazing dancers.  They jump and flip and really get into it.  The girls are all beautiful but don't get into it as much (probably because they want to look sexy, which they do).  Anyway, I feel very fortunate to be here for this.  I have taken photos and video but nothing can capture the spirit of joy and celebration that is going on in Puno.  So, I was way off base in my initial judgment and apologize to the Ciudad de Puno.  (It's still dirty and noisy though.).

Parade

Isla Tequile 

Isla Uros

The voyage on the lake was also amazing involving three hours to and from Isla Tequile.  The Uros aren't so far.  I loved the Uros people and walking on their floating island,  riding on a reed boat and even being invited into their home was incredible.  The Tequile people weren't as friendly, but made us a meal consisting of lake trout, quinoa soup, unleavened bread and some spicy salsa that was amazing!  The most incredible part was just being on this beautiful lake that's close to 12,000 feet in elevation!  The colors of the water and the sky were breathtaking.  Pictures will not do it justice.  And I'm really sorry Puno for the bad review.  You definitely don't deserve it.

This Place Sucks!

Had the upstairs picture Window seat on the 7 hour bus trip from Cusco to Puno.  The good news about that is of course the view.  The bad news is that you can see trucks and buses heading directly toward you as they (or the bus I was riding) pass where there is no room to pass.  Crazy!   A young man sat next to me and was connected in some way with the couple across the aisle.  I immediately thought Italian by the accent, constant talk except when he was eating (and sometimes even then) and I was right.  It turned out that Ernesto is living in Cusco and working for a non-government organization that is trying to improve the lives of women, especially mothers, who live in the country (not in the city - duh).  Anyway he is showing his parents from Napoli around and we all made friends and exchanged phones, emails, etc. and Marilina says I can visit her in Naples anytime despite the fact that she speaks very little English and my Italian stinks.  That's not even the best part.  The best part is that they shared some genuine Italian Gouda that was unbelievable.  The countryside was also spectacular with people herding sheep, cows and llamas - sort of high plains with mountains in the distance. . . Beautiful!

View from the Bus

View from my Room 

Okay, so now for the rest of it.  Puno is a horrid, loud, dirty town that reminds me of the worst parts of East Oakland on steroids and in Spanish.  From this room, I hear lots of horns and traffic interspersed sith the occasional siren and gunshots.  The good news is that tomorrow morning I leave for Lake Titicaca and then be on the night bus out of this hellhole and on to the jungle.  Yikes I am crazy!  Here are some pictures anyway. I seem to be having technical difficulties, so the one picture is typical dress for this region and the virgin Mary is right outside my room in a glass encased altar.

Ollantaytambo, Cusco and Onward!

Left Aguas and Machu Picchu sadly after spending the morning walking along the river and visiting the Jardin Botanica where I saw a lot of birds which I will need to research upon my return.  Walking back to town, I met Erika (Spokane) and Maria (Holland) who were on their way back to Cusco where they are volunteering at a school.  Erika was interested in my Katadyn water filter because her boyfriend has just designed a new (and he thinks better) filter system.  If you're interested, it's called the Grayl and you can see it (and even invest if you want) at a site called Kickstarters.  I then said adios por ahora to my new friend, Soledad and headed off to the train.  I'm not sure how, but I had seat No. 1 which is the very front seat of the train with a big picture Window.  It was very cool, except for the very large grouchy German guy sitting next to me with a horrible butt crack (he kept getting up to take pictures in the back of the car and flashing it at me - yuk!).
Got back to Ollantaytambo, walked around town, painted, had a Peruvian burrito (yummy) and came back to my hotel where I met Tom, Victoria, Alan And Kerry from Santa Barbara. They offered me a glass of wine.  Do I ever refuse a glass of wine?  They are all archeology buffs who had just returned from Keulap, Chiclayo, Sipán and Huaca el Bruja (maybe others?).  With the exception of Chiclayo which is a pueblo, they are all ruins in a not easily accessible area of Northern Peru  from different cultures.  They showed me pictures of relief carvings and mummies that were totally amazing.  I'm thinking another trip to Peru????

Moray

A Street in Ollantaytambo 

Victoria, Kerry, Alan And Tom

Looking Down on Ollantaytambo 

We ended up spending the next day visiting Salinas and Moray and I had a great time and learned some things too!  For instance, it's believed that Moray was sort of an Inkan laboratory for crops with each concentric circle having its own microclimate.  (Thanks Kerry!).  They are kind, smart and fun people and I hope our paths cross in the future.

I left Ollantaytambo by taking two combis (think VW van with 15-20 people).  Hey, it only cost 7.5 soles to get to Cusco!  Met a young woman named Lauren from DC who has received a grant to study the Quecha language and will be living in Urubamba until next April.  Upon returning to Cusco l walked up to Sacsaywamán, but couldn't get in without paying a lot (bummer) and the sun was beginning to set so I walked back down through the square.  The good news is that I was able to walk up hills and stairs without altitude sickness so I've adjusted and it's off to Puno and Lake Titicaca I go!

A Dream Come True - And Then Some!

 Greetings from Machu Picchu!  I couldn't sleep last night I was so excited.  I awoke at four, had breakfast, packed my stuff and beaded for the 5:30 bus (the first one of the day).  As you can hopefully see from the photos, the clouds gave the whole place an other wordly feeling.  I met a new friend at the hitching post to the sun (Helen from Sweden), which is said to be very sacred - and I certainly felt that it was.  I got to explore a lot with small crowds which was great.  Pictured is the hut of the caretaker of the funerary rock (the roofed place) with Huayna Picchu showing through the fog.  The other two pictures are a distant shot of Intihutana where the hitching post to the sun resides and just a shot of surrounding peaks covered in fog.  Then there is a picture of my friend, Soledad, who works at the hotel where I am staying in Aquas Calientes.  She helps me practice my Spanish.  Okay, and last but in this case not least is me at the PEAK of Huayna Picchu!  Yes friends - I did it!  So, today was an amazing day for me.  I fulfilled a lifelong dream of visiting one of the truly sacred, and incredibly breathtakingly beautiful places on the planet and I climbed a pretty big Mountain (for me anyway).  Not a bad day.  May you all have days that make you feel this happy.  Bye for now.

Soledad