Panama Ed

Okay, so it's a silly name based on a Grateful Dead song of all things, but there is a story (not much of one).  The proprietor of this fine place told me his name several times - something like Edrrrrrrranciel.  He says I'm not the only one who doesn't get it.  Anyway, he said, "Just call me Ed.". There - now on with the story.

View from My Balcony of  Bridge of the Americas

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My Bathroom (Looks like the one we had as children)

View from the top of Ancon Hill

I'm not sure what I expected to find in Panama City, but I'm pretty sure this wasn't it.  The city seems very cosmopolitan and is loaded with unusual skyscrapers which seem, for the most part, to be clumped together.  There is an old town which is currently under major construction but is full of beautiful old buildings with wrought iron gates and balconies on narrow streets.  Ships line up in the Pacific Ocean to go through the canal, and the ocean seems WAY calmer than the Pacific Ocean with which I'm acquainted.  The coolest thing, though, is Ancon Hill where I'm staying. This hill used to be owned by America's military as is evidenced by the base-style housing.   It's an actual small rain forest within the city limits and is literally teeming with wildlife.  I have seen Tamarin monkeys, parrots, toucans and a variety of other birds, all from my very own balcony with the most comfortable hammock.  There is also a large rodent (not as large as a Capybara but similar looking) who roams around all over this hill. It's called a Central American Agouti. The one thing i have determined is that this country bears closer inspection.  I haven't ventured too far, having only a few days here and liking the idea of staying put after a long and fairly active trip, but I walk up to the top of the Hill in the morning and evening to look at the trees, birds and to watch large vessels go through the Miraflores Locks.  For a relatively small country, you could spend time here exploring its forests, mountains and what appears to be great beaches.  But that's for another trip.  See y'all soon!

You Gotta See This!

Unless you're shy, prudish or under age.  But first -. A brief summary of my day.  Having miscalculated my departure, I was unable to stay at my standby hotel, Kusillus, tonight while waiting for my departure.  I ended up paying four times their rate of $17/night and booked a place in San Ysidro for $80/night (all I could find).  You would not believe what you can get in Lima for $80!  I have a two bedroom, two bath suite in an upscale neighborhood.   This place is unbelievable!  Two big tv's, full kitchen, bathtub, etc. in a neighborhood where people have varnished garage doors and tall walls with spikes to "protect" themselves (I guess).  Met a guy named Frank here who is from LA and travels with a hip hop group called Killafornia.  He's off to Russia after here.  And a woman named Camille who researches health and wellness spas in different places and writes about them.

Dead Men Masturbating

Depicting Venereal Disease 

On my last day here, I visited the Museo de Larco which has the largest collection of pre - Columbian pottery.  Really interesting!  I've included a few pictures.  WARNING - CONTAINS ADULT MATERIAL and just some weird stuff.

People with Facial Paralysis?  You Betcha!

Really!  There was everything you can imagine.  I've only included a few.  What an interesting place!  I also found an Inkan pyramid in the center of Lima surrounded by homes and highrises.  It was used as a burial Site.  Off to Panama in the middle of the night.  Bye for now.

The Sad City?

The Lonely Planet book refers to Lima as the sad city due to the fact that it is pretty constantly blanketed in fog (not unlike San Francisco).  As cities go, it has sort of grown on me.  It's huge, parts of it are unsafe, and the traffic is fairly horrendous but you can get around in taxis for about 10-15 solés (the equivalent of 4-10$ US). Today I took a taxi to the Plaza de Armas which is full of people hanging out and very important looking buildings with guards and policia.  By the way, in case you haven't figured it out or I haven't told you, every town/city/pueblo has a Plaza de Armas.  I went to Iglesias Santa Domingo mainly for my friend, Paulette (they have the skulls of dead saints encased in glass, especially Santa Rosa).  I then walked to the Parque de La Reserva where the Circuito Magico del Agua happens at night, skipping the catacombs in the Monasterio de San Francisco (sorry Paulette).  The park and fountains are incredible - something like the Bellagio in Las Vegas but with that weird Latin American slant.  There was a talent show involving five acts and the young man who won hugged his father and cried while being filmed.  (The losers were gracious.). There were two bride/groom couples and a few prom queen's/princesses? walking around while a train took children and their parents on a tour of the fountain park.  Where else could you see all that?  I loved it!  I leave tomorrow night, so tomorrow is my last day in Peru.  I plan to visit Museo Larco where the largest collection of pre-Columbian erotica (and other) ceramic art is housed, including a piece showing transmission of venereal diseases???  I'll let you know.

Flower Market 

Doesn't look so sad after all.

It's A Jungle Out There

My Guide, Jhonatan 

I can't even think of how to describe this place.  First of all, it is oppressively hot with temperatures and humidity in at least the high 80's. It is darn hot!  Secondly, you must wear long sleeved shirts, long pants, rubber boots (have you ever hiked in rubber boots?) and preferably a hat.  The reason for this is to protect you while in the jungle from coral snakes, fire antz, a palm tree with spikes, the very poisonous Fer de Lance, etc.  Having said all of that, it is really amazing here.  The people who I have met are incredibly knowledgeable about their jungle and willing to teach you.  The jungle itself is indescribable.  Today we hiked about 3 1/2 miles each way (in rubber boots) to a lake that was beautiful.  We saw an anteater, toucans, hoatzin birds, caracaras, hawks and a sloth that we actually were able to touch.  I have ziplined, fished for piranhas, gone night canoeing and got caught in the most amazing downpour I have ever experienced.  I met some great people including a man in his 80's (Bob) who is going through his bucket list, a young woman (Rose) who is spending a year and a half completing her thesis on the habits of the red urikari monkey and of course Cindy and Luke who have been great people to get to know and who I have hiked with AND ziplined with, and Ellis and Sarah who I accompanied on a fishing excursion - FUN!  I will be leaving in the morning.  Back to Lima for a day and then to Panama for a few days, but I will really miss this place and hope to return sometime.  I highly recommend this to everyone as it will be unlike anything you have experienced and something you'll never, ever forget - I promise!

I'm In the Jungle!

Where to start?  I know I mentioned Iquitos but it is one of the more interesting cities I've seen.  One of the guides said the town has more than 50,000 motor taxis (basically tuk-tuks).  Gambling is also legal and there are discotheques.  Yes, discotheques complete with flashing lights and balloons and stuff.  Anyway, it's a very interesting place, but the Tahuayo Lodge is "chanatre".  That is supposed to be Spanish for really cool, awesome, splendid. . . You get it, but I may have misspelled it.  It's just amazing here.  We took a covered sort of ferry boat about two hours up the Amazon river which is enormously incredible, stopped in a little village called Esperanza where there were nice people and a band playing.  Then another two hours on the Tahuayo river to get here.  Already, I've seen and in some cases photographed, pygmy marmosets, squirrel monkeys, parrots and other birds of the jungle (I can't remember all their names).  It's beginning to get dark and I'm looking forward to the night sounds.  What a place! Oh, and the people are really nice too!  Today I met Cindy and Luke from Las Vegas and Ellis and Sara from Alberta.  Each of us has their own guide and mine is Jonathan who is 21 and a really knowledgeable person - and he makes monkey calls which is why I saw so many monkeys today.  Tonight we took a boat up river and looked for wildlife.  We saw Tahuayo birds which are called that because their call sounds like they're saying Tahuayo.  They glow in the dark!  There were fireflies and a caiman and some kind of night heron and we turned off our headlamps while floating in the river and listened to jungle sounds and looked at the stars and the river - magical!

Sorry - No pictures today, but some later.

Off to the jungle

Very difficult to write here, but I'll try.  The plane flew over miles and miles of jungle and Iquitos is insane in a charming sort of way.  The Amazon is huge and the town is over run with tuk-tuks.

Puno Actually Rocks!

Okay, I admit when I'm wrong.  Everything else I said still applies,  but it turns out that the gunshots were firecrackers as there is now a brass band going up and down the street which is making the horns beep more but all in good fun.  Yay!  Wonder what the occasion is. . . .
It's La Celebracion de Los Universidads and the fun doesn't stop.  After an incredible day on Lake Titicaca today - and I really mean totally cool - we were dropped off near to our hotel because there were people dancing in the streets.  It's still going on and it's a really big deal with some of the coolest angel and devil and monster costumes I've ever seen!  The guys are amazing dancers.  They jump and flip and really get into it.  The girls are all beautiful but don't get into it as much (probably because they want to look sexy, which they do).  Anyway, I feel very fortunate to be here for this.  I have taken photos and video but nothing can capture the spirit of joy and celebration that is going on in Puno.  So, I was way off base in my initial judgment and apologize to the Ciudad de Puno.  (It's still dirty and noisy though.).

Parade

Isla Tequile 

Isla Uros

The voyage on the lake was also amazing involving three hours to and from Isla Tequile.  The Uros aren't so far.  I loved the Uros people and walking on their floating island,  riding on a reed boat and even being invited into their home was incredible.  The Tequile people weren't as friendly, but made us a meal consisting of lake trout, quinoa soup, unleavened bread and some spicy salsa that was amazing!  The most incredible part was just being on this beautiful lake that's close to 12,000 feet in elevation!  The colors of the water and the sky were breathtaking.  Pictures will not do it justice.  And I'm really sorry Puno for the bad review.  You definitely don't deserve it.